Faka i-imeyili yakho ukuze uhlale unolwazi lwakamuva ngezincwadi zezindaba, izimemo zemicimbi nokukhushulwa nge-imeyili ye-Vogue Business.Ungazikhipha ohlwini nganoma yisiphi isikhathi.Sicela ubheke Inqubomgomo yethu Yobumfihlo ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe.
Imboni yezingubo zamehlo ayizange ihambisane nayo yonke imboni yezemfashini, kodwa izinguquko zenzeka njengoba igagasi lemikhiqizo ezimele lithinta imakethe ngemibono emisha, ubuchwepheshe obusha nokuzibophezela ekuhlanganiseni.
Umsebenzi we-M&A nawo uthathiwe, uphawu lwezikhathi ezineziyaluyalu.I-Kering Eyewear imemezele izolo ukuthi ihlela ukuthenga i-Lindberg, uhlobo lwezingubo zamehlo zikanokusho zase-Danish ezaziwa ngobuchwepheshe obuphezulu be-titanium optics nezici ze-bespoke, okubonisa inhloso yayo yokukhula emkhakheni. Ngemva kokubambezeleka kanye nokuhilizisana ngokomthetho, umenzi wezingubo zamehlo waseFrance-Italy u-EssilorLuxottica ekugcineni uqedele ukuthenga kwakhe umthengisi wezingubo zamehlo waseDashi i-Grandvision ngoJulayi 1. Olunye uphawu lomfutho: Uchwepheshe wezingilazi ze-omnichannel wase-US u-Warby Parker usanda kufaka i-IPO - usuku oluzonqunywa. .
Imboni yezingubo zamehlo kade ibuswa amagama ambalwa, afana ne-EssilorLuxottica kanye ne-Italy's Safilo.Izindlu zemfashini ezifana ne-Bulgari, Prada, Chanel kanye ne-Versace zonke zithembele kulaba badlali abakhulu ukukhiqiza amaqoqo abo ezingubo zamehlo ezivame ukuvunyelwa.Yethulwa ngo-2014, e-Kering Izingubo zamehlo zidizayina, zithuthuke, zimakethe futhi zisabalalise izingubo zamehlo endlini zohlobo lwe-Kering kanye ne-Richemont's Cartier and Alaïa kanye nomkhiqizo wezingubo zemidlalo i-Puma.Ukukhiqiza kusanikezwa kakhulu abahlinzeki bendawo: ihabhu isungule ibhizinisi lemali elinganiselwa ezigidini ezingu-600 zama-wholesale.Kodwa ochwepheshe abasha bezingubo zamehlo abaklama, abakha futhi basabalalisa badala amandla amasha emakethe.Futhi, naphezu kokubusa kwe-EssilorLuxottica, ezinye izindlu zemfashini zibheke ukufunda empumelelweni yemikhiqizo yamehlo ezimele.Amagama okumele abukwe: I-Gentle Monster yaseNingizimu Korea, ibhrendi ene izitolo ezinetimu zezitini nodaka ezibukeka njengemibukiso yobuciko, ukusebenzisana kwephrofayili ephezulu, nemiklamo epholile.I-LVMH ithenge ingxenye engamaphesenti angu-72017 ngamadola ayizigidi ezingu-60. Abanye bancike ekusungulweni nasekuhlanganiseni.
Imboni yezingubo zamehlo izobuya ngamandla ngo-2021, kanti imboni kulindeleke ukuthi ikhule ngo-7% iye ku-$129 billion, ngokusho kwe-Euromonitor International. njengesidingo esinqwabelene, njengoba izingubo zamehlo zithengwa esitolo.
Ngokomlando, imboni yezemfashini ayikaze ibe nekhono lokukhiqiza imikhiqizo yezingubo zamehlo, ngakho yaphendukela ezinkampanini ezifana ne-EssilorLuxottica ukuthi yenze futhi isabalalise imikhiqizo. owazalwa”, njengoba u-Federico Buffa, uMqondisi we-R&D, Isitayela Somkhiqizo kanye Nelayisense kwaLuxottica Group, esho.
Ukuthola kuka-EssilorLuxottica iGrandVision kudale umdlali omkhulu kakhulu.” Ukuvela komdondoshiya omusha wezingubo zamehlo sekumi ngomumo,” kusho umhlaziyi kaBernstein, uLuca Solka.“Manje njengoba imizamo yokuhlanganisa ngemva kokuhlanganiswa isingaqala ngobuqotho, kuningi okumelwe kwenziwe, okuhlanganisa… ... inethiwekhi kanye nokusheshiswa kwedijithali. "
Kodwa kungase kube amabhrendi amancane anomthelela ekusaseni lezingubo zamehlo zikanokusho. Itholakala e-Nordstrom kanye nezitolo zamehlo ezingaba ngu-400, izinhlobo zaseMelika uCoco noBreezy zibeka ukuhlanganiswa phambili eqoqweni ngalinye.”Umkhiqizo wethu awunabulili,” kusho abasunguli uCorianna noBrianna Dotson. , amawele afanayo ase-Afrika-aseMelika nasePuerto Rican.” Lapho siqala ukungena emakethe, abantu babehlale bethi: 'Liphi iqoqo lenu lamadoda?Likuphi iqoqo lakho labesifazane?Sakha izingubo zamehlo zabantu abahlale benganakwa [abakhiqizi bendabuko].'”
Lokho kusho ukwenza izibuko zamabhuloho ekhala ahlukene, ama-cheekbones kanye nesimo sobuso.” Kithina, indlela esenza ngayo izibuko ingokwenza ucwaningo lwemakethe nokwenza konke esingakwenza ukuze sakhe [amafreyimu] atholakala kuwo wonke umuntu,” kusho odade bakwa-Dotson. Bakhumbula umthelela wokuba ukuphela komkhiqizo wezingubo zamehlo zabamnyama ukuthamela i-Vision Expo, umbukiso wokuhweba ngezingubo zamehlo.”Kubaluleke kakhulu kithina ukukhombisa ukuthi ukunethezeka akubukeki njengeYurophu kuphela.Ukunethezeka kubukeka yonke indlela,” kusho bona.
Uhlobo lwaseKorea i-Gentle Monster yethulwa ngo-2011 ngumsunguli kanye ne-CEO u-Hankook Kim ukuze kukhiqizwe amafreyimu enzelwe abathengi base-Asia kuphela, kodwa ngemva kokufinyelela izethameli zomhlaba wonke, lo mkhiqizo manje usudale umugqa wezingubo zamehlo ezibandakanya bonke abantu.” Ekuqaleni, asizange senze kanjalo. cabanga ngokuya emhlabeni wonke,” kusho u-David Kim, umqondisi we-Gentle Monster wesipiliyoni samakhasimende. "Ngaleso sikhathi, amafreyimu amakhulu ayeyinjwayelo emakethe yase-Asia.Njengoba sikhula, sathola ukuthi kwakungesona isifunda sase-Asia kuphela esasinentshisekelo kulawa mafreyimu.”
Idizayini ebandakanyayo, njengazo zonke izingubo zamehlo ezinhle, inesitayela futhi iyasebenza.” Besidinga ukuthi sikwazi ukuhlanganisa izitayela, imfashini kanye nomsebenzi,” kusho uKim.Sizoba nomklamo wesakhiwo sefreyimu, kodwa sizoba nosayizi abahlukahlukene ukuze kufakwe lokhu.Okubalulekile ukwenza okuningi ngangokunokwenzeka ngaphandle kokudela umklamo.Kungenzeka okubandakanyayo.”UKim uthi inkampani encane efana ne-Gentle Monster ingenza umsebenzi omuhle wokuzama imakethe, ithole impendulo eqondile evela kubathengi, futhi ifake leyo mpendulo ekuphindaphindweni komkhiqizo olandelayo.Ngokungafani nabakhiqizi bezingubo zamehlo abavamile, i-Gentle Monster ayiqhutshwa izibalo zezingubo zamehlo noma idatha. .Ikhule yaba umsunguli oyinhloko ngokugxila empendulweni yamakhasimende kanye nokusungula izinto zobuchwepheshe.
E-Mykita eseBerlin, edayisela abathengisi emazweni angu-80, ucwaningo nentuthuko kusemongweni webhizinisi layo.UMoritz Krueger, oyi-CEO kanye nomqondisi wezobuciko weMykita, uthe imboni yezingubo zamehlo ayikhuli.Ngokuka-Krueger, ukuhlukahluka kwabo. abathengi kanye nezici zobuso kufanele kuqondwe ngokucacile.” Besilokhu sakha iqoqo lethu ngokusekelwe ekuhlaziyeni okuphelele kwezinhlobo ezihlukahlukene zobuso, kanye nezidingo ezahlukene zencwadi kadokotela,” kusho u-Kruger.” amakhasimende ethu emhlabeni jikelele ukwenza ukukhetha okufanele…ukuthola uzakwethu ofanele ngempela.”
Inqubo yocwaningo nentuthuko isenhliziyweni kachwepheshe wezingubo zamehlo u-Mykita, odale ama-SKU angaphezu kuka-800. Wonke amafreyimu ayo enziwe ngesandla e-Mykita Haus e-Berlin, eJalimane.
Kunezizathu eziningi ezinhle zokuthi kungani le mikhiqizo emincane ingaba nomthelela ongemuhle emakethe.” Njengakuzo zonke izigaba, kunomuntu omusha ogcina ephumelele ngoba enomkhiqizo ofanele, ukuxhumana okulungile, ikhwalithi efanele, isitayela esifanele, futhi baxhuma nomthengi,” i-Luxury Francesca Di Pasquantonio, inhloko yemikhiqizo, ucwaningo lwezokulingana eDeutsche Bank.
Izindlu zemfashini zikanokusho zifuna ukujoyina.I-Gentle Monster isebenza nemikhiqizo efana no-Fendi no-Alexander Wang.Ngaphezu kwendlu yemfashini, baphinde basebenzisane no-Tilda Swinton, Blackpink, World of Warcraft kanye noJennie we-Ambush.I-Mykita isebenzisane noMargiela, uMoncler. kanye noHelmut Lang.” Asigcini nje ngokuhlinzeka ngemikhiqizo eseqedwe ngesandla, kodwa i-R&D yethu, ubuchwepheshe bokuklama kanye nenethiwekhi yokusabalalisa kuhlanganiswe kuphrojekthi ngayinye,” kusho u-Krueger.
Ubungcweti buhlala bubalulekile.” Kuzoba inselele kakhulu kumkhiqizo owubukhazikhazi ukuthi ube nesiphakamiso esiphrofeshinali sakho konke ukulinganisa, ukuhlola, njll. Yingakho sicabanga ukuthi ochwepheshe bezingubo zamehlo bazoqhubeka nokubamba iqhaza.Lapho okunethezeka kungabamba iqhaza ekwakhiweni kobuhle nokusebenzisana nalaba chwepheshe.”
Ubuchwepheshe bungelinye ithuluzi elishintshayo embonini yezingubo zamehlo. Ngo-2019, i-Gentle Monster yahlangana nesikhondlakhondla sezobuchwepheshe saseShayina iHuawei ukukhulula izibuko zayo zokuqala ezihlakaniphile, okuvumela abathengi ukuthi bashaye futhi bamukele izingcingo ngezibuko.” Bekuwutshalomali, kodwa sakwenza. imali eningi ngayo,” kusho uKim.
I-Gentle Monster yaziwa ngamaqoqo ayo ezingubo zamehlo, izibonisi ezinhle zokuthengisa nokusebenzisana okusezingeni eliphezulu.
Ukugcizelelwa kokusungula izinto ezintsha sekuyingxenye ebalulekile yobunikazi be-Gentle Monster.Abathengi bakhangwa ukuhluka kwemikhiqizo, kusho uKim.Ubuchwepheshe bufakwe esitolo se-Gentle Monster nakuwo wonke umlayezo wokumaketha.”Buheha abathengi.Abantu abebengakacabangi ngisho nokuthenga izibuko bakhangwe amarobhothi nezibonisi zethu ezitolo,” kusho uKim. Isitolo esiphambili se-Gentle Monster sishintsha okwenziwa yizitolo zamehlo ngamaqoqo alinganiselwe, amarobhothi nezibonisi eziqanjiwe.
I-Mykita izame ukuphrinta kwe-3D, yakha into entsha ebizwa ngokuthi i-Mykita Mylon, eyawina indondo ehlonishwayo ye-IF Material Design Award ngo-2011. I-Mykita Mylon - eyenziwe ngempushana ye-polyamide ecolekile yahlanganiswa yaba okuqinile ngobuchwepheshe bokuphrinta be-3D - iqinile kakhulu futhi ivumela iMykita ukuthi lawula inqubo yokuklama, kusho uKrueger.
Ngaphezu kokuphrinta kwe-3D, i-Mykita iphinde yakha ubudlelwano obungavamile nomkhiqizi wekhamera u-Leica ukuze bakhe amalensi ayingqayizivele yohlobo olulodwa lwezibuko ze-Mykita.Ubambiswano olukhethekile seluthuthukiswe iminyaka engaphezu kwemithathu futhi luvumela i-Mykita ukuthi ithole " amalensi elanga ekhwalithi ye-optical-grade avela ngqo e-Leica anezingubo ezifanayo ezisebenza njengamalensi ekhamera echwepheshile kanye ne-sports optics,” kusho u-Krueger.
Ukuqamba okusha kuyizindaba ezinhle kuwo wonke umuntu osembonini yezingubo zamehlo.”Esiqala ukukubona manje imboni lapho kwenzeka khona ukuqamba okusha, kokubili ngamafomethi kanye namafomethi we-omni-channel kanye nendlela esiza ngayo abathengi.Ayinazihibe futhi idijithali kakhulu,” kusho u-Balchandani.” Sibona izinto ezintsha eziningi kule ndawo.”
Lo bhubhane uphoqe izinkampani zamehlo ukuthi zithole izindlela ezintsha zokufinyelela abathengi. I-Cubitts isebenzisa i-Heru, ubuchwepheshe bokuskena ubuso, ukushintsha indlela abathengi abathenga ngayo izibuko futhi ivumele abasebenzisi ukuthi bazame izibuko ekhaya besebenzisa ubuchwepheshe be-3D.” Uhlelo lokusebenza lwe-Cubitts lusebenzisa amaskena (izingxenyana zemilimitha) ukuze uphendule ubuso ngabunye bube isethi ehlukile yezilinganiso.Sibe sesisebenzisa lezo zilinganiso ukuze sisize ukukhetha uhlaka olusebenzela wena, noma sidale olulodwa kusukela ekuqaleni ukuze sifinyelele usayizi Wakho onembile nonembile,” kusho uTom Broughton, umsunguli weCubitts.
Ngokucwaninga nokuhlaziya okujulile, u-Bohten udala imikhiqizo yezingubo zamehlo esimeme eyenza abantu abahloniphekile e-Afrika bakhululeke.
Umthengisi omkhulu wezingubo zamehlo e-UAE, i-Eyewa, esanda kunyusa amaRandi ayizigidi ezingu-21 emzuliswaneni we-Series B, futhi ihlela ukukhulisa iminikelo yayo yedijithali. kusho u-Anass Boumediene, ongumsunguli kanye no-CEO we-Eyewa."Ngokusebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bethu kanye nesiteshi sethu sonke ngokusebenzisa ulwazi lwethu lwesitolo sezitolo, sizokwenza igxathu elikhulu ekuletheni izimakethe eziningi ku-inthanethi."
Ukuqamba okusha kuphinde kudlulele ekuzinzeni. Akufaneli nje lokho. Umsunguli we-Nana K. Osei uthe, “Amakhasimende ethu amaningi ancamela ukusebenzisa izinto ezisimeme ezihlukene, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi i-acetate esekelwe ezitshalweni noma izinkuni ezihlukahlukene, ngoba ukunethezeka nokulingana kangcono kakhulu kunezinhlaka zensimbi.”, umsunguli we-African-inspired eyewear brand Bohten.Isinyathelo esilandelayo: Nweba umjikelezo wempilo wezibuko.Ngaphandle kwalokho, amabhrendi azimele ahola ikusasa elisha lezingubo zamehlo.
Faka i-imeyili yakho ukuze uhlale unolwazi lwakamuva ngezincwadi zezindaba, izimemo zemicimbi nokukhushulwa nge-imeyili ye-Vogue Business.Ungazikhipha ohlwini nganoma yisiphi isikhathi.Sicela ubheke Inqubomgomo yethu Yobumfihlo ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jan-17-2022