Faka i-imeyili yakho futhi uhlale unolwazi lwakamuva ngezincwadi zezindaba, izimemo zomcimbi nokukhushulwa nge-imeyili ye-Vogue Business.Ungazikhipha ohlwini noma kunini.Sicela ubheke inqubomgomo yethu yobumfihlo ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe.
Imboni yezingubo zamehlo ayizange ihambisane nesivinini sezinye izimboni zemfashini, kodwa njengoba igagasi lemikhiqizo ezimele lithinta imakethe ngemibono emisha, ubuchwepheshe obusha, nokuzibophezela ekubandakanyeni wonke umuntu, izinguquko ziyenzeka.
Umsebenzi we-M&A nawo usuqalile, okuwuphawu lwenkathi eneziyaluyalu.I-Kering Eyewear imemezele izolo ukuthi ihlela ukuthenga i-Lindberg, uhlobo lwezingubo zamehlo zikanokusho zaseDenmark ezaziwa ngamalensi alo obuchwepheshe be-titanium optical nezici zokwenza ngokwezifiso, okubonisa inhloso yayo yokuthuthuka kulo mkhakha.Ngemva kokubambezeleka kanye nezinkinga zomthetho, umkhiqizi wamehlo waseFrance-Italian u-EssilorLuxottica wagcina eqedile ukutholwa komthengisi wezingubo zamehlo waseDashi i-Grandvision ngama-euro ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingu-7.3 ngoJulayi 1. Esinye isibonakaliso somfutho: UWarby Parker, uchwepheshe wezingubo zamehlo ze-omnichannel e-United States, usanda kufaka isicelo. i-IPO-ezonqunywa.
Imboni yezingubo zamehlo sekuyisikhathi eside ibuswa amagama ambalwa, njenge-EssilorLuxottica ne-Safilo e-Italy.Izinkampani zemfashini ezifana ne-Bulgari, Prada, Chanel kanye ne-Versace zithembele kulaba badlali abakhulu ukuze bakhiqize amaqoqo ezingubo zamehlo ngokuvamile anelayisensi.I-Kering Eyewear yethulwa ngo-2014 futhi iklama ngaphakathi, ithuthukise, imakethe futhi isabalalise izingubo zamehlo zohlobo lwe-Kering, i-Richemont's Cartier ne-Alaïa, kanye ne-Puma yezemidlalo.Ukukhiqiza kusanikezwa ikakhulukazi abahlinzeki basekhaya: I-Fulcrum isungule ibhizinisi lemali etholwayo lama-euro ayizigidi ezingu-600.Kodwa-ke, ochwepheshe abasha bezingubo zamehlo ekwakhiweni, ekukhiqizeni nasekusabalaliseni bakha amandla amasha emakethe.Ngaphezu kwalokho, naphezu kwesikhundla esiphezulu se-EssilorLuxottica, ezinye izinkampani zemfashini zifuna ukufunda empumelelweni yemikhiqizo yamehlo ezimele.Igama okufanele ulibone: I-Gentle Monster yaseNingizimu Korea, uhlobo lwesitolo esinetimu esibukeka njengegalari yobuciko, ukusebenzisana kwephrofayili ephezulu kanye nemiklamo epholile.I-LVMH ithenge ingxenye engu-7% ngo-2017 ngentengo yama-US $ 60 wezigidi.Abanye bavame ukusungula izinto ezintsha futhi bahlanganise konke.
Ngokusho kwe-Euromonitor International, imboni ye-optical izobuya ngamandla ngo-2021, kanti imboni kulindeleke ukuthi ikhule ngo-7% ukuze ifinyelele ku-US $ 129 billion.Njengoba izibuko zithengwa kakhulu ezitolo, ukusimama komnotho kuzoqhutshwa ukuxegiswa kwemikhawulo yokuthengisa ebekwe yilo bhubhane kanye nesidingo esinqwabelene.Abahlaziyi bathi ukuvulwa kabusha kwemboni yezokuthengisa kuzothuthukisa ukubuyiselwa kwamadijithi amabili kwezinye izimakethe, kubandakanya iHong Kong neJapan.
Ngokomlando, imboni yezemfashini ayikaze ibe nekhono lokukhiqiza imikhiqizo yezingubo zamehlo, ngakho yaphendukela ezinkampanini ezifana ne-EssilorLuxottica ukwenza nokusabalalisa imikhiqizo.Ngo-1988, uLuxottica wasayina isivumelwano selayisense sokuqala no-Giorgio Armani, "isigaba esisha esibizwa ngokuthi 'izibuko' sazalwa", njengoba u-Federico Buffa, uMqondisi we-R&D, Isitayela Somkhiqizo kanye Nelayisensi yeLuxottica Group, esho.
Ukuthola kuka-EssilorLuxottica i-GrandVision kudale umdlali omkhulu kakhulu.Umhlaziyi kaBernstein, uLuca Solca, embikweni uthe: “Ukuvela komdondoshiya omusha wezibuko ekugcineni kungenise esiteji.”“Manje sesingawuqala umsebenzi wokuhlanganisa ngemuva kokuhlanganiswa ngobuqotho.Ziningi izinto okumele zenziwe, okuhlanganisa...ukudidiyelwa kwempahla nokuthengisa.Inqubo nengqalasizinda, izinsiza ezididiyelwe zokusika nokuhlanganisa amalensi, ukulungiswa kosayizi wenethiwekhi yokudayisa kanye nokulinganisa, kanye nokusheshisa kwedijithali. "
Kodwa-ke, imikhiqizo emincane ingase ithinte ukuthuthukiswa kwesikhathi esizayo kwezibuko zokunethezeka.Imikhiqizo yaseMelika i-Coco ne-Breezy inezitoko e-Nordstrom kanye nezitolo zamehlo ezingaba ngu-400, okubeka ukubandakanywa konke phambili eqoqweni ngalinye."Imikhiqizo yethu ayinabo ubulili," kusho amawele afanayo ase-African-American kanye nasePuerto Rican uCorianna noBrianna Dotson.“Lapho siqala ukungena emakethe, abantu babehlale bethi: 'Ziphi izingubo zakho zabesilisa?Likuphi iqoqo lakho lezingubo zabesifazane?Sakha izibuko zabantu abahlale benganakwa [abakhiqizi bendabuko].”
Lokhu kusho ukudala izibuko ezifanele amabhuloho ekhala ahlukene, ama-cheekbones kanye nokuma kobuso.“Kithina, indlela esenza ngayo izibuko empeleni iwukwenza ucwaningo lwemakethe nokwenza konke esingakwenza ukuze sakhe [amafreyimu] afanele wonke umuntu,” kusho odade bakwaDotson.Bakhumbule umthelela wokubamba iqhaza kwi-Vision Expo njengokuwukuphela komkhiqizo wezibuko ophethwe abantu abamnyama.“Kithina, kubaluleke kakhulu ukukhombisa ukunethezeka hhayi e-Europe kuphela.Ziningi izindlela zokubheka izimpahla zikanokusho,” kusho bona.
I-brand yaseKorea i-Gentle Monster, eyethulwe umsunguli kanye ne-CEO u-Hankook Kim ngo-2011, yaqala ukukhiqiza amafreyimu kubathengi base-Asia kuphela, kodwa ngemva kokuheha izethameli zomhlaba wonke, lo mkhiqizo manje usudale uchungechunge lwezibuko ezifakiwe.“Ekuqaleni, besingacabangi ngempela ngokuya emhlabeni wonke,” kusho uDavid Kim, umqondisi wolwazi lwamakhasimende kwaGentle Monster.“Ngaleso sikhathi, emakethe yase-Asia, amafreyimu amakhulu abeyinjwayelo.Njengoba sikhula, sathola ukuthi lezi zinhlaka zazingenasithakazelo esifundeni sase-Asia kuphela.”
Idizayini ebandakanyayo, njengazo zonke izibuko ezinhle, inesitayela futhi iyasebenza."Kudingeka sikwazi ukuhlanganisa izitayela, imfashini kanye nokusebenza," kusho uKim.“Umphumela wukuthi sinokukhetha okubanzi nokuvumelana nezimo ekwakhiweni kwethu.Sizoba nomklamo wohlaka, kodwa sizoba nosayizi abahlukene ukuze sizivumelanise nezimo.Okubalulekile ukuthi ube nokuningi ngangokunokwenzeka ngaphandle kokudela umklamo.Ukubandakanywa.”UKim uthe izinkampani ezincane ezifana ne-Gentle Monster zingenza umsebenzi omuhle wokuhlola imakethe, zithole impendulo eqondile kubathengi, futhi zihlanganise le mpendulo ekuphindaphindweni komkhiqizo olandelayo.Ngokungafani nabakhiqizi bezingubo zamehlo abajwayelekile, i-Gentle Monster ayiqhutshwa izibalo zezingubo zamehlo noma idatha.Ngokugxila ekuphenduleni kwamakhasimende kanye nokuqanjwa kabusha kwezobuchwepheshe, ikhule yaba umsunguli oyinhloko.
I-Mykita iwuphawu olusekelwe eBerlin oludayisela abathengisi imikhiqizo emazweni angu-80, futhi i-R&D iwumgogodla webhizinisi layo.UMoritz Krueger, oyi-CEO kanye nomqondisi wokudala weMykita, uthe imboni yezingubo zamehlo ayikathuthuki.U-Krueger ukholelwa ukuthi izici ezihlukahlukene zomthengi nezobuso kufanele ziqondwe ngokucacile."Besisakha uchungechunge lwethu ngokusekelwe ekuhlaziyeni okuphelele kwezinhlobo ezahlukene zobuso nezidingo ezahlukene zemithi," kusho u-Kruger.“[Sine] iphothifoliyo yomkhiqizo ephelele kakhulu, evumela amakhasimende ethu okugcina ukuthi enze ukukhetha okufanele ngempela emhlabeni wonke…ukuthola lo uzakwethu ofanele ngempela.”
Inqubo yokuthuthukiswa isenkabeni ye-Mykita, uchwepheshe wezingubo zamehlo, osedale amayunithi wokusungula angaphezu kuka-800.Wonke amafreyimu ayo enziwe ngezandla eMykita Haus eBerlin, eJalimane.
Lawa mabhrendi amancane angase abe nomthelela ongalingani emakethe, futhi kunezizathu eziningi ezinhle.Njengakuzo zonke izigaba, umuntu omusha uzogcina ephumelele ngoba unomkhiqizo ofanele, ukuxhumana okufanele, izinga elifanele, isitayela esifanele, futhi usesungule ukuxhumana nomthengi,” kusho isikhulu esiphezulu uFrancesca Di Pasquantonio. , I-Deutsche Bank Equity Research.
Izinkampani zemfashini zikanokusho zifuna ukungena. I-Gentle Monster isebenzisana nemikhiqizo efana no-Fendi no-Alexander Wang.Ngaphandle kwendlu yemfashini, baphinde basebenzisane noTilda Swinton, uJennie kaBlackpink, iWorld of Warcraft kanye ne-Ambush.UMykita usebenzisana noMargiela, Moncler noHelmut Lang.UKrueger uthe: “Asigcini nje ngokuletha imikhiqizo eqediwe eyenziwe ngezandla, kodwa i-R&D yethu, ubuchwepheshe bokuklama kanye nenethiwekhi yokusabalalisa kuhlanganiswe kuphrojekthi ngayinye.”
Ulwazi lochwepheshe lusabalulekile.U-Anita Balchandani, inhloko yakwaMcKinsey Europe, Middle East and Africa Apparel, Fashion and Luxury Group, uthe: “Ngomkhiqizo owubukhazikhazi, kuzoba inselele enkulu ukuba nesiphakamiso sochwepheshe mayelana nokufaneleka nokuhlola.”Yingakho sikholelwa ukuthi ochwepheshe bezingubo zamehlo bazoqhubeka nokubamba iqhaza.Lapho impahla ewubukhazikhazi ingaba neqhaza khona kusekuklanyweni kobuhle nokubambisana nalaba chwepheshe.”
Ubuchwepheshe bungelinye ithuluzi lokukhuthaza izinguquko embonini yezibuko.Ngo-2019, i-Gentle Monster ibambisene nesikhondlakhondla sobuchwepheshe baseShayina iHuawei ukuze ikhiphe izibuko zayo zokuqala ezihlakaniphile, okuvumela abathengi ukuthi bashaye futhi bamukele izingcingo ngezibuko."Lokhu kuwutshalomali, kodwa sizuze kakhulu ngakho," kusho uJin.
I-Gentle Monster yaziwa ngamaqoqo ayo ezingubo zamehlo, izibonisi ezinkulu zokuthengisa nokusebenzisana okusezingeni eliphezulu.
Ukugcizelelwa kokuqanjwa kabusha sekuyingxenye ebalulekile yobunikazi beMonster Emnene.UKim uthe abathengi bakhangwa ukuhluka komkhiqizo.Ubuchwepheshe buhlanganiswe nesitolo se-Gentle Monster kanye nawo wonke umlayezo wokumaketha.“Iheha abathengi.Abantu abangakacabangi ngisho nokuthenga izibuko bakhangwa amarobhothi ethu nezibuko esitolo,” kusho uJin.Isitolo se-Gentle Monster flagship sishintsha okwenziwa yizimpahla zamehlo ngochungechunge olukhawulelwe, amarobhothi nezibonisi ezintsha.
I-Mykita yazama ukuphrinta kwe-3D futhi yathuthukisa uhlobo olusha lwempahla ebizwa ngokuthi i-Mykita Mylon, eyazuza umklomelo we-IF ohlonishwayo wokuklama impahla ngo-2011. I-Mykita Mylon-eyenziwe ngempushana ye-polyamide ecolekile ihlanganiswe entweni eqinile isebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bokuphrinta be-3D-iqinile futhi ivumela iMykita ukuthi lawula inqubo yokuklama, kusho u-Kruger.
Ngaphezu kokuphrinta kwe-3D, i-Mykita iphinde yasungula ubudlelwano obungavamile nomkhiqizi wamakhamera uLeica ukuze bakhe amalensi ayingqayizivele nayingqayizivele ezingilazi zaseMykita.U-Krueger uthe lobu budlelwano obukhethekile buthuthukiswe iminyaka engaphezu kwemithathu, okuvumela iMykita ukuthi "ithole ngqo kwaLeica ilensi yelanga esezingeni eliphezulu enezingubo ezifanayo ezisebenza njengamalensi ekhamera ochwepheshe kanye nezimboni zezemidlalo."
Ukuqamba okusha kuyizindaba ezinhle kuwo wonke umuntu osembonini yezibuko.“Esiqala ukukubona manje imboni lapho kwenziwa khona ukuqanjwa okusha, okuhlanganisa amafomethi namafomethi ama-omnichannel kanye nendlela ehlinzeka ngayo ngezinsizakalo kubathengi.Ayinamthungo futhi idijithali kakhulu,” kusho uBalchandani."Sibone ukusungulwa okusha kule ndawo."
Lo bhubhane uphoqe izinkampani zamehlo ukuthi zithole izindlela ezintsha zokufinyelela abathengi.I-Cubitts isebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bokuskena ubuso be-Heru ukushintsha indlela abathengi abathenga ngayo izibuko, futhi ivumela abasebenzisi ukuthi basebenzise ubuchwepheshe be-3D ukuze bazame izibuko ekhaya.“Uhlelo lokusebenza lwe-Cubitts lusebenzisa ukuskena (ingxenye yemilimitha) ukuze luguqule ubuso obunye bube isethi ehlukile yezilinganiso.Bese, sisebenzisa lezi zilinganiso ukuze sisize ukukhetha uhlaka olufanele, noma ukudala ifremu kusukela ekuqaleni ukuze sifinyelele ukunemba Kanye nosayizi onembile,” kusho uTom Broughton, umsunguli weCubitts.
Ngokucwaninga nokuhlaziya okujulile, u-Bohten udala imikhiqizo yezingubo zamehlo esimeme efanele abantu bozalo lwase-Afrika.
I-Eyewa, umthengisi omkhulu wezingubo zamehlo ku-inthanethi we-UAE, usanda kukhulisa u-US$21 wezigidi ekuxhasweni ngezimali kochungechunge B futhi ihlela nokwandisa imikhiqizo yayo yedijithali.U-Anas Boumediene, umsunguli kanye no-CEO we-Eyewa, uthe: "Sibheka ukuhlanganiswa kobuchwepheshe obusha behadiwe ochungechungeni oluzayo, njengezinhlaka zokuzwa umsindo."“Sebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bethu kanye namashaneli omni-wonke ngokusebenzisa izitolo zethu ezihamba phambili.Isipiliyoni, sizokwenza inqubekelaphambili enkulu ekuletheni izimakethe eziningi ku-inthanethi.”
Ukuqamba kabusha kudlulela ekuzinzeni.Akukhona nje ukuba ufanelekile.Umsunguli u-Nana K. Osei uthe: “Isizathu esenza amakhasimende ethu amaningi athande ukusebenzisa izinto ezisimeme ezihlukene, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi i-acetate esekelwe esitshalweni noma izinto ezihlukahlukene zokhuni, kungenxa yokuthi ukunethezeka nokulingana kungcono kakhulu kunezinhlaka zensimbi.", umsunguli we-Bohten, uhlobo lwezingubo zamehlo eziphefumulelwe e-Afrika.Isinyathelo esilandelayo: Nweba umjikelezo wempilo wezibuko.Kunoma yikuphi, izinhlobo ezizimele zihola ikusasa elisha lezibuko.
Faka i-imeyili yakho futhi uhlale unolwazi lwakamuva ngezincwadi zezindaba, izimemo zomcimbi nokukhushulwa nge-imeyili ye-Vogue Business.Ungazikhipha ohlwini noma kunini.Sicela ubheke inqubomgomo yethu yobumfihlo ukuze uthole ulwazi olwengeziwe.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Nov-10-2021